MIXING: Mix 2 parts Ark Epoxy Resin with 1 part Ark Epoxy Hardener. Measure using graduated containers, don’t guess, too much or too little hardener will affect proper cure. Mix thoroughly, scraping sides of the container, spread with solvent resistant Brush, Roller, or Squeegee.
WORKING TIMES: Pot life at 20C about 20 min, sandable in 8 hours. These times will roughly double for every 8C drop and ½ for every 8C rise in temperature. Overcoat without sanding as soon as the first coat is tacky, 1 to 2 hrs., after 6 hours sand with 80 grit before recoating.
WOOD: Should be clean, dry, free of oil and paint.
WATERPROOF COATING: Roll or brush a thin coat of mixed epoxy, apply a second coat after the first has begun to tack up, about 1 hour. If epoxy is allowed to cure hard (6 to 10 hr) it must be sanded or the next coat will not stick.
GLUE: Spread a thin coat of mixed epoxy on both surfaces, clamp until glue just starts to squeeze out, do not over clamp. Thickening to a paste with Colloidal Silica will make a good gap filler for uneven surfaces.
BODY FILLER: Add Wood Flower, 3M Bubbles or Micro Balloon to make a sandable fairing compound or gap filler.
STRUCTURAL FILLER: Add Cotton Fibre with about 25% Colloidal Silica.
FIBERGLASSING: For light weight (6oz) cloth on Canoes/Kayaks etc. Lay the cloth on dry spread carefully with your hands, do not pull. Starting from the center and working to the ends, roll or brush enough epoxy to saturate the cloth, working out wrinkles with a brush, spreader or gloved hands as you go. Use a plastic spreader to remove excess resin or you will get runs. Apply a second and third coat as soon as the previous coat has gelled (1 to 2 hr). Sand the next day or when hard, allow 7 days for full cure before Paint or Varnish. For heavier fiberglass see below.
PREP FIBERGLASS: Use Acetone and a clean cotton cloth to remove wax or oil. For light weight fiberglass such on small boats, ATV,s etc use a sander with course (40 grit) paper to remove gelcoat or paint for at least 2” around damaged area. Continue sanding until all damaged fiberglass has been removed, delimitation shows up as white patches, remove this too. A mini grinder with a course resin fibre disk will work faster on heavier glass but is more aggressive.
PREP METAL: Use Acetone and a clean cotton cloth to remove wax or oil. Sand to remove paint, rust and other coatings. Surfaces should be clean and dry for Epoxy to adhere properly.
PREP PLASTICS: Epoxy will adhere well to most hard plastics such as PVC and ABS plumbing pipe, just sand with course paper to remove shiny surface. Most Kayaks are made with Polyethylene, for this and other waxy plastics “flaming” will improve adhesion. Use a Propane torch with a flame spreader to heat the plastic surface just to the point where it starts to go shiny. Keep the tip of the flame 2” or 3” off the surface waving it slowly back and forth, don’t rush it. Overheating will cause severe damage. Apply Ark Epoxy immediately after flaming.